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Emma Wootton Wellbeing

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Skin Science Treatments

Close-up of a person wearing a moisturizing facial sheet mask with a white towel wrapped around their head.

Sensitive skin refers to individuals who have a heightened intolerance to products and environmental factors. Those with sensitive skin may experience symptoms such as redness, discomfort, bumps, and irritation. This condition can be linked to various causes, including skin disorders like eczema or rosacea, which require effective rosacea management. Additionally, overly dry skin can result from a compromised hydrolipid barrier, making it crucial to explore holistic skin treatments. Overexposure to irritants like wind, sun, and harsh topical ingredients can further exacerbate the issue. In all cases, the impairment of the skin’s moisture barrier leads to dryness and irritation, which can also affect individuals seeking acne treatment or hyperpigmentation solutions.

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Acne


Acne is the most common skin disorder and can significantly impact individuals' lives. This skin condition consists of comedones, papules, pustules, and cysts. Acne most frequently develops on areas of the body rich in sebaceous (oil) glands, such as the face, neck, chest, back, and shoulders. Although acne typically begins at puberty, many adults also experience this condition, leading them to seek effective acne treatment options.


The primary causes of acne include:


01


BLOCKAGE OF HAIR FOLLICLES (PORES)


where sebum (oil) is produced, often due to dead skin cells.


02


OVER PRODUCTION OF SEBUM


03


PROLIFERATION OF P.ACNES BACTERIA


and resultant inflammation.


Types of Acne


Blackheads and whiteheads (also known as open and closed comedones) occur when a plug of sebum and dead skin cells is visible inside a follicle (pore) without causing inflammation or redness. 


Blackheads: When the plug enlarges and stretches the pore, it is identified as a blackhead. Contrary to common belief, blackheads are not trapped dirt; the dark color results from a build-up of melanin and oxidized oil.


Whiteheads: In contrast, when a thin layer of skin traps the plug, it prevents the oil from oxidizing, resulting in the formation of a whitehead.


01. NON-INFLAMMATORY


Blackheads and whiteheads occur when a plug of sebum and dead skin cells is visible inside a follicle but does not cause any inflammation or redness.


02. INFLAMMATORY


When follicles are obstructed by sebum and skin cells, the follicular wall experiences pressure. If this pressure becomes excessive, the follicle wall may rupture, causing the contents to spread into the surrounding skin. Consequently, when your immune system reacts to this bacteria and sebum, inflammatory acne emerges. The intensity of inflammation determines the size and redness of an acne lesion.


Papules: Pink or red bumps without a white or yellow center.


Pustules: Red bumps featuring a white or yellow center filled with pus. Pustules form when the plug inside a pore traps oil and bacteria, attracting white blood cells to combat the infection. Pus consists of dead white blood cells.


Cysts and nodules: These are larger and often painful acne lesions that penetrate deeper into the skin layers. Cysts and nodules can persist for months, damage the follicle, and lead to permanent scars. Individuals suffering from this type of acne should consider holistic skin treatments or consult a dermatologist for tailored treatment options, particularly if they also deal with hyperpigmentation solutions or rosacea management.


It is essential for those with sensitive skin to find effective strategies for managing their acne while addressing any other skin concerns, utilizing the principles of skin science.

Close-up of a person wearing a moisturizing facial sheet mask with a white towel wrapped around their head.

Rosacea is a chronic skin condition characterized by facial flushing, redness, telangiectasias (visible vessels), bumps, and pimples. The first sign of rosacea may be intermittent redness or flushing. This condition is most often seen in fair-skinned individuals between the ages of 30 and 50 and typically affects the cheeks, nose, forehead, and chin. While rosacea is more common in women, it tends to be more aggressive in men. The exact cause of rosacea remains uncertain, with theories suggesting links to bacteria in the colon, allergies to the natural mite (demodex mite) residing on our skin, unstable blood vessels, genetics, and sun exposure. One thing is clear: certain irritants can lead to chronic inflammation and rosacea flare-ups. 


For those with sensitive skin, daily aggressors like sun, wind, and pollution can trigger reactions. When the skin is compromised, it struggles to protect itself, prompting the body to send blood to the affected areas as a defense mechanism. This influx of blood delivers oxygen via red blood cells and immunity through white blood cells to counteract the effects of irritants. However, this process also results in heat, redness, and inflammation. Over time, if this flushing reaction occurs regularly, the blood vessels beneath the skin may become dilated, leading to more permanent redness and worsening rosacea symptoms. For effective rosacea management, it’s crucial to avoid common triggers. 


**Common Triggers**  

**TEMPERATURE**  

- Very hot or cold weather  

- Wind exposure  

- Hot showers, baths, and saunas  


**DRINKS AND FOOD**  

- Hot drinks and soups  

- Caffeinated beverages like tea or coffee  

- Alcohol  

- Spicy foods  


**INTENSE EXERCISE**  

- Overheating can trigger flushing; try to stay cool while exercising.  


**SUN EXPOSURE**  

- Wear sunscreen daily (with an SPF of at least 30).  

- Use physical filters like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide to keep skin cooler by reflecting UV rays.  

- Avoid sun exposure between 11 am and 4 pm.  


**COSMETIC PRODUCTS**  

- Avoid products with fragrances, alcohols, abrasives, and other irritating substances.  

- Opt for gentle products and minimize the number of products used.  


**STRESS**  

- Stress is a common trigger for rosacea.  

- Manage stress through adequate sleep, a balanced diet, and relaxation techniques.  


**MEDICATIONS**  

- Certain medications can cause flushing.  

- Prolonged use of cortisone creams can exacerbate rosacea.  


**CLASSIFICATIONS OF ROSACEA**  

- **Subtype 1**: Characterized by flushing and persistent redness, may also include visible vessels.  

- **Subtype 2**: Persistent redness accompanied by transient bumps and pimples.  

- **Subtype 3**: Skin thickening, often seen on the nose.  

- **Subtype 4**: Involves dry eyes, tearing, burning, swollen eyelids, recurrent styes, and potential vision loss due to corneal damage.  


Sources: Canadian Dermatology Association, The National Rosacea Society 2015.  


*Rosacea is a medical condition that should be diagnosed by a skincare professional before starting any treatment plan. It does not improve spontaneously and may worsen over time if left untreated. For those seeking holistic skin treatments or hyperpigmentation solutions alongside their rosacea management, consulting a skincare expert is essential to address both sensitive skin and underlying issues.

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Large Pores: 


Sebum (oil) is produced to protect our skin, making it waterproof and preventing it from becoming dry. Oil glands produce sebum that moves through the lining of each pore and then onto the skin’s surface. If overproduced, that oil can mix with dead skin cells in the pore, leading to clogging and swelling, which can complicate acne treatment efforts.


Large pores can also be a result of aging skin. The production of collagen and elastin decreases with age, and a loss of elasticity can make the pores appear larger. Gender and genetics also play a role; men generally have larger pores than women, although hormonal fluctuations in females may contribute to enlarged pores. For those with sensitive skin or conditions like rosacea, holistic skin treatments may help manage pore appearance. Additionally, addressing hyperpigmentation issues can improve overall skin texture.

Close-up of a woman touching her neck with her hand.

Oily Skin:


Oily skin is caused by the overproduction of sebum (oil) and is commonly linked with acne, which often necessitates effective acne treatment. This skin type is associated with large pores, blackheads, and a noticeable shine. Genetics and hormones play a key role in determining the amount of oil our skin produces, impacting everything from acne to holistic skin treatments for balance.


Dry Skin:


Dry skin is characterized by a lack of moisture and natural oils in the epidermis, leading to scaling, itching, and fine lines. This dryness is typically related to a skin barrier issue that allows for increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL), highlighting the importance of skin science in understanding skin health.


Main Causes:


Winter weather: Cold temperatures and low humidity can dehydrate sensitive skin, making it crucial to find effective hydration solutions.


Aging: As we age, hormonal changes lead to a decrease in sebum production and an increase in TEWL, making our skin more prone to dryness and requiring effective hyperpigmentation solutions.


Genetics: Some individuals naturally produce less sebum, resulting in drier skin than others.


Hot showers: Spending too long in hot water can dry out your skin, so limiting showers to about five minutes is advisable.


Excessive exposure to water and harsh soaps: Frequent washing can strip skin of moisture, especially if using soaps that remove natural oils, which is detrimental to both oily and dry skin.


The sun: Unprotected UV ray exposure disrupts the skin’s ability to maintain moisture levels, further complicating rosacea management and overall skin health.

Close-up of two faces showing natural skin texture and features.

Hyperpigmentation occurs when excess melanin leads to a darkened appearance of the skin in either small or large areas. Pigmentation is the natural color of a person’s skin and is closely related to melanin production, which serves to protect skin cells and their DNA by absorbing the sun’s ultraviolet rays (UVR). Generally, darker skin types are more susceptible to hyperpigmentation than lighter skin types due to their inherent higher melanin levels.


**UV INDUCED**


This type of hyperpigmentation manifests as freckles, age spots, and uneven skin tone, primarily caused by exposure to ultraviolet rays (UVR) from the sun or tanning beds.


**02 PIH**  

Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH) occurs in areas of the skin that have experienced inflammation due to trauma, acne, or irritation (such as from fragrances or laser side effects). This inflammation activates Langerhans cells (immune cells), which in turn alter the activity of melanocytes (skin cells), resulting in increased pigment production. Effective acne treatment can help prevent PIH from developing after breakouts.


**MELASMA (CHOLASMA)**  

Melasma appears as symmetrical patches most often on the cheeks, chin, upper lip, and forehead. This condition can be related to hormonal changes during pregnancy, use of birth control pills, menopause, or hormone replacement therapy. For those with sensitive skin, holistic skin treatments may provide relief from melasma symptoms.


**hyperpigmentation process**  

1. Hyperpigmentation triggers include inflammation, UV rays, and hormonal changes.  

2. Melanin production is stimulated within melanocytes, with tyrosinase being a key enzyme in this process.  

3. Melanin is transferred from melanocytes to skin cells.  

4. Skin cells are in a constant state of upward motion towards the surface.  

5. The skin develops dark spots or patches on the surface or may appear uniformly darker (as in a tan).


It is important to note that hyperpigmentation can darken as the skin cells approach the surface. This aspect is crucial because, with many hyperpigmentation solutions, the darkening may occur before the desired lightening effect is achieved.


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